Fitting the passenger castle and membrane

[et_pb_section fb_built=”1″ _builder_version=”3.22″][et_pb_row _builder_version=”3.25″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”3.25″ custom_padding=”|||” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.7.7″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” hover_enabled=”0″ text_text_color=”#000000″ sticky_enabled=”0″]With the front section of the inner sill repaired we continued the rest of the repairs. We needed to carefully chisel out the rear section of the outer rocker and remove the remains of the castle on the portion of the inner rocker we left in place.

Once everything had been cleaned up it was time to get the castle in place. This is a more detailed view of the same procedure we used on the other side as well. We use custom-made rulers on the top of the inner rocker to make sure that the front edge of the castle is square and in the same plane as the upper flange. We also use specially-cut steel pieces as a ruler which measure the height of the membrane to make sure the castle is welded at the proper height.

Once the castle is welded in place we trim the membrane to clear and fit it in place.

We fit and welded the jack point brace in and rustproofed the inner sill and backside of the membrane before welding in place.

After plug-welding and spot-welding, the membrane is in place. (Note the drain hole is still visible in the back).